The ruins of Dunluce Castle in the direction of Portrush at Sunset Credit to David Getty & Causeway Coast Community
On the Ulster coastline in the County of Antrim between the popular seaside town of Portrush and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Giants Causeway, sits another one of Northern Ireland's iconic land marks. It is not iconic because of its history although it is historic, but rather because of its dramatic and romantic appeal. I am of course talking about Dunluce Castle, or perhaps more accurately what is left of it because the castle is a ruin. An 1840 travel guide depicts a romantic and dramatic picture describing "The picturesque ruins of Dunluce Castle lay scattered over the surface of a rocky promontory projecting boldly into the wild and turbulent waters of the North Atlantic. These were once the feudal halls of powerful chieftains long ages ago shattered, unroofed and despoiled by war; and now but the naked wreck left by the slow mining hand of time." More recently it appeared in the Game of Thrones series as Pyke Castle (although it is almost unrecognisable due to the large amounts of CGI)
I visited Dunluce in August and took some pictures while I was there and thought I'd share them while telling the story of one of Northern Ireland's most iconic landmarks. Since the place is in ruins it has not surprisingly gained a reputation for being haunted so since its October and Halloween is approaching I'll throw in a couple of ghost stories too. Starting off with a brief history
The MacQuillans and the MacDonnells
A little bit like Game of Thrones much of the castle's story revolves around the rivalry of two great clans, with a little bit of conflict with the Crown thrown in for good measure.
A hiding place dated to the early Christian period cut into the rock in the castle inner ward
There has been human settlements on and around Dunluce since pre history (the 'Dun' in the name suggests the presence of a ringfort) and there was a castle at or near Dunluce in the 13th Century however the history of the current castle begins in the early 16th Century. According to the guide leaflet I got when I visited the earliest standing remains of the castle date to around 1500 and accordioning to DiscoverNorthernIreland it was first documented in 1513.
The MacQuillans were of Scottish descent and came to Ireland in the 13th Century as gallowglasses, They became lords of a territory known as the Route the 15th Century which basically extended between the Rivers Bann and Bush (its a little more complex but thats perhaps a subject for a different time). The MacQuillans were powerful in fact the name of their territory is thought o derive from the word "rout" which was the common term for a private army.
A view of the Inner Ward from the Outer Ward
The MacQuillans built the castle however in 1554 another Scottish family fought with the MacQuillans for possession of the castle. This was the MacDonnells who were a sept or branch of the Clan MacDonald. As a result the castle changed hands between the two clans various times before the MacQuillans were finally beaten in 1565 at the Battle of Aura. The battle took place in a bog Oral tradition tells us that the MacDonnells lead by the fantastically named Sorley Boy MacDonnell stood on firm ground but by covering the bog with reeds and rushes were able to trick the MacQuillans to enter the bog where they were easily cut down.
The inner ward sits on an outcrop the outer ward is to the left The outer ward was used to greet guests, house visitors and staff, and featured lodgings, a stable, and possibly a brewery (arguably the most important building)
A view from the lodgings
remains of a fireplace in the outer ward lodgings
inside the lodgings in the outer ward, another fire place is to the right
Path down to the cave beneath the castle known as the Mermaid's cave Due to Covid19 restrictions it was closed on the day of my visit so I have no pics of the cave
The Castle under the MacDonnells
After taking possession of the castle permanently Sorley Boy made it his seat of power, and as such made it more comfortable. He rebuilt much of it in the Scottish style of the period and much what survives of the castle can be traced to this period. However that was not the end of conflict at Dunluce Castle. For after taking his land from the MacQuillans the MacDonnells spent much of the remainder of the century trying to keep it from the forces of Elizabeth I. In 1584 the Lord Deputy of Ireland, Sir John Perrot laid siege to and took Dunluce Castle for the Crown. Local legend goes that Sorely Boy was able to retake the castle by being hauled up the cliff in a basket (presumably with some of his men at arms) by one of the servants in the castle. Sorely Boy and Perrot reluctantly entered into negotiations which culminated with Sorley Boy pledging loyalty to the Queen and she regranted him his lands and the castle.
The Funnel and the Bridge. Originally this was a draw bridge but it was later replaced my a stone arch and wooden walkway
The Gatehouse to the left was originally built by the MacQuillans but was rebuilt in its present Scottish style by the MacDonnels as was the curtain wall to the right note the openings added to house cannon from a wrecked ship of the Spanish Armada
An impression of how the funnel, gatehouse and curtain wall looked in the 17th Century
Detail of the First Trust £10 note featuring the Girona
Sorley Boy appears to have mostly remained loyal to the Queen although there is one event where that loyalty can be questioned. On the night of 26th October 1588 the Spanish Galleass 'Girona' was making her way around the Antrim coast to Scotland. Girona was one of the ships of the Spanish Armada. Following the Armada being scattered by the wind and by English fire ships it made its way around Scotland and Ireland in order to return to Spain and lost many ships in the process. The Girona was one of the many stragglers, she was designed for the calm waters of the Mediterranean and was unsuited to
19th Century engraving of the wreck of the Girona Lacada Point and the Spanish Rocks are in the background
the British coastline. After making repairs in Donegal it was decided to sail for neutral Scotland rather than attempt to make the perilous trip to Spain . After passing Lough Foyle she was caught in a storm and was driven onto rocks not to far from Dunluce Castle at Lacada Point (the rocks in question would from henceforth be known as the Spanish Rocks) and sank with the estimated loss of 1300 souls. There were nine survivors who despite his allegiance to the Queen Sorley Boy helped escape to his kin in Scotland. However Sorely Boy also salvaged riches from the wreck with which he was able to improve the castle including two ship's guns which were installed in the curtain wall beside the gatehouse.
The Girona has become another part of the local folklore and is even depicted on the reverse of the £10 Northern Ireland banknotes that were issued by First Trust Bank prior to 2019 (although no longer being printed they are still legal currency until June 2022)
The Earls of Antrim
Armorial bearings of the Earl of Antrim at Dunluce
Sorely Boy was a winner and was successful in walking the tightrope between rebellion and loyalty to the crown to secure his family's future as the rulers of Dunluce Castle and the lands around it. Sorely Boy's 4th son Randal succeeded him as head of the clan, and with the support of the new King James I founded a town outside the castle in 1608. This town was inhabited not just by Scottish settlers but also many local Irish tenants. In 1618 while much of the rest of Ulster was undergoing the plantation, the King made Randal the 1st Earl of Antrim increasing the lands, power and wealth of the MacDonnells further. Randal set about making the castle more comfortable and built the manner house in the centre of the castle as well as remodelling some of the other buildings in the castle.
This was heyday of the castle however for the town of Dunluce was burned to the ground in the 1641 rebellion and following the Cromwellian reconquest of Ireland the lands of Dunluce were granted to Cromwell's soldiers and the castle was abandoned. However it was reoccupied with the restoration of Charles II in 1660 and the town rebuilt. However unlike most of the other plantation towns, Dunluce was not a success. It's economy suffered from the lack of a natural harbour making trade difficult and it was abandoned again by the 1680s never to be reoccupied or rebuilt.
The ornate frontage of what remains of the Manor House
In 1635 the second Earl married the widow of the Duke of Buckingham and she lived here It is said she was always uneasy being so close to the sea, and left after part of the savants' quarters collapsed
The interior of the manner house with its big fire places and large windows
Plaque at Dunluce depicting the Manor House
The Kitchen Collapse and the ruin of the Castle
The Kitchen next to the Manor House
Local legend has it that sometime towards the end of the castle being occupied there was a great feast being held on a dark and stormy night. However the feast was cut short when the Earl and his guests heard a mighty crash and screams; as the storm caused the cliff supporting the kitchen to collapse into the sea taking the kitchen with it, as well as all those that were in it at the time. Only a single member of the kitchen staff survived and this was a young serving boy who happened to be standing in the one small corner of the kitchen to remain as the rest plummeted into the sea. The wife of the Earl refused to live in the castle after that and the MacDonnells abandoned the castle leaving it to fall to ruins.
We know this is the kitchen due to the large ovens
Ask anyone in Northern Ireland what happened to Dunluce castle and they will tell you some form of that story. While it is a great story it is I am afraid just a story. The kitchen did not fall into the sea, in fact if you visit the castle you can clearly see the remains of the kitchen complete with its great stone ovens. However like most legends it does have a basis in fact, the MacDonnells did indeed leave the castle for the more comfortable Glenarm castle and this remains the seat of the Earls of Antrim to this day. Alexander MacDonnell the 3rd Earl of Antrim was the last of the MacDonnells we know was born at Dunluce Castle. During the Glorious Revolution of 1688 he raised a regiment for James II, and with that regiment went to take over the garrison of Londonderry but had the gates closed upon his men (starting a stand off that would end in the Siege of Derry), thus setting into action a chain of events the would cumulate in the vanquishing of James II to be replaced as King of Ireland, England and Scotland by William III & Mary II.
Antrim finding himself on the losing side was no longer able to support the expense of maintaining the cast and thus abandoned it to ruin. At some point a portion of the in the inner ward fell into the sea, giving rise to the legend of the kitchen. Although despite that fact it is said that on dark stormy nights you can still hear rock shattering and the ghostly cries of the servants as they once more plunge to their deaths in the icy sea below.
The Courtyard of the Inner Ward housed servants' quarters and workshops
Inside the remains of one of the buildings in the Inner Ward Courtyard
The chimney of the above building
Looking out at the coast
The rear most building of the court yard fell into the sea long ago. This corner is all that is left
A view of the white rocks with Portrush in the distance
The ghosts of Dunluce
Like all good castles Dunluce has its fair share of alleged hauntings. As well as the souls of the kitchen staff reliving the night of their death (even though the kitchen never actually collapsed and is largely still intact today) there are other apparitions and panorama activity that have been reported over the centuries.
We will star with the south east tower. This is the one beside the curtain wall closest to the gatehouse. For it is said to haunted by the spirit of Peter Carey. Carey was the Constable of the castle after it fell to the Queen's Lord Deputy, however when Sorley Boy MacDonnell retook the castle he took his revenge on Carey by hanging him from the southeast tower. It is said his spirit never left that tower and is allegedly seen on dark nights roaming the ramparts. Carey's ghost is identifiable as he is in a dark purple cloak and is wearing a ponytail which might actually be the rope that killed him. Visitors to the castle also report feeling someone push past them inside the southeast tower despite the fact they are the only ones there.
Originally built by the MacQuillans to protect the Curtain Wall It was improved by the MacDonnells and features gun loops The castle's constable was hanged from this tower in 1584
View of the outer ward from one of the cannon ports
A view of the lodgings from the gun port
These columns were part of a loggia which overlooked a garden before the manor house was built
Next is the north east tower which is said to be haunted by a white lady. There are slightly different variants of the story, however they all agree that the white lady is the spirit Mave McQuillans who was imprisoned in that tower by father to prevent her from seeing the man she loved (a match her father evidently did not approve). However here the stories differ for one read that she pined away in the tower and died of a broken heart. She is said to have met her lover at the castle when he was either a prisoner or one of the soldiers tasked with guarding it, stories differ. Another version of the story states that Mave fled with her lover to the Mermaid's Cave to escape to Portrush in a boat hidden in the cave. However the sea proved to rough and they pair drowned. While her lover's body was washed ashore the next morning the Sea refused to give up Mave's body and as such she was denied a Christian burial. Where the stories agree again is that Mave's spirit haunts the tower she was imprisoned in. After the tragedy servants refused to enter the tower however on the rare occasion a living soul entered the tower it is said that it was spotless, without even a speck of dust. The ghost of Mave apparently keeping it clean. Because the tower Mave is still said to reside in the tower it became known as the MacQuillan Tower even after the MacDonnells took over.
The north east tower was built at the same time as the south east. Both were closed off as Covid19 percussions
It retains its Irish style with an upper room and separate ground floor vault.
Likewise the MacQuillan Banshee still haunts the castle and lands surrounding it. It is said that screams of the Banshee echo around the castle whenever a member of the Clan MacQuillan is on their death bed. Some have even said the screams originate from the north east tower leading some to speculate that the spirit of Mave and the Banshee are one in the same.
In the 16th Century a woman in white was said to appear on the cliffs beside the castle every day at sunset. She was said to always gaze out to sea and some accounts state she wailed like a fury, but all agreed she soon disappeared. No one knows exactly who this was, some say it is the spirt of Mave MacQuillan, some that it was the Banshee and some that it is both. A story says that in 1534 one of the MacQuillan children saw the Lady in white on the shore, where she disappeared into thin air in front of him. He returned the next night with his siblings but the lady didn't appear. There continued to be reports from locals of the Lady walking along the shore before sunset throughout the following decades. When the child now a man in his 30s returned to the spot he originally seen the apparition the lady materialised to him. He attempted to speak with her but once again she vanished and has not been seen since.
Poltergeist activity has also been reported in the castle reception and gift shop. Staff report that they will come to work in the morning to find that someone has rearranged the shelves during the night, despite the fact the shop is locked and there is no sign of a break in. Sometimes they will also find the radio has been turned on despite the fact it was switched off at the end of the day before!
The Castle today
The castle ruins have inspired music, art and literature and are today still the property of the
MacDonnells although the seat of the Earldom is Glenarm castle. However Dunluce is a monument in state care being cared for by the Northern Ireland Department for Communities (Previously the NI Environment Agency). The Government of Northern Ireland have had guardianship of the ruins since 1928 and seek to preserve them as much as possible for the benefit of future generations. Although undoubtedly one day nature will take her course and the ruins will fall to the sea. However until that day comes (hopefully in the far future) the castle will no doubt continue to awe and inspire.
Dunluce Town however has been likened as an Irish equivalent of Atlantis. The town was considered lost to history until archaeological discovery in 2011. It was found that it may have been built on a grid system with complex houses with indoor toilets (new in Europe at the time). Its estimated 95% of the town is yet to be rediscovered.
The above feature digital reconstructions of the ruins of six British castles first of which is Dunluce. In the meantime if you are ever on the North Antrim coast I would recommend spending some time to explore these majestic ruins and soak up the history and the legends.
What is the defining battle in the history of Ulster and the Ulster Protestant identity?
probably the first candidate is the Battle of the Boyne, and it is understandable why many could come to conclusion. It is after all the battle emortablised in myth, legend, artwork and song, not to mention the parades of the Orange Institution across the province and beyond.
the image of William III crossing the Boyne one of the most well
known in Ulster folk lore
The Boyne is certainly an important battle and one that is forever enshrined in Ulster Protestant culture and identity. However I don't think it is the defining battle.
Next candidate you could say is the Siege of Londonderry, it is according to the traditional view the moment the Protestants of Ulster had their backs to the wall so to speak. The moment when they knew nothing but defeat and retreat, seemingly abandoned by their fellow countrymen on the island of Great Britain had to fall back to their plantation citadel with its crumbling walls. Yet despite this the right people were in the right places at the right times and sustained by religious and national pride endured throughout the horrors and hardships to their victory. There is no doubt the symbolism of the siege of Derry is powerful and a worthy candidate.
There is no shortage of battles in Ulster history but today I am of course going to speak of the Somme.
The Somme is to Northern Ireland and Northern Irish identity (or atleast unionist Northern Irish identity) what Gallipoli is the Australia or Vimy Ridge is to Canada. It is when the young nation finds it feet and secures it future through the blood sacrifice which honored by a grateful empire sees them take their place as equals in a great imperial family.
There are of course some distinct differences between the two dominions and Northern Ireland of course. One is the legal entities and jurisdictions of both Australia and Canada were defined before the Great War. Where as that of Northern Ireland was defined after. Whereas the two battles in regard to the Canada and Australia helped forge a common national identity for Ulster Unionists it defined the right to continue to exist.
Signing of the Covenant 1912
The road to the Sommes role as its defining battle really begins in the late 19th Century with Ulster's opposition to Home Rule, that being self governance for Ireland within the United Kingdom. However it really takes place when the Third Home Rule Bill passes the House of Commons in 1912 due to a Liberal and Irish Parliamentary Party (the moderate Irish nationalist party of the day) coalition. This in turn leads to the events of the Ulster Solemn League and Covenant in which Ulstermen sign in their thousands pledging to resist "the current conspiracy" by "all means necessary." Thousands of women also sign a mirroring covenant pledging to support the men in their struggle. These documents are one of the defining moments in the creation of the modern Ulster Protestant identity. The Covenant is to Ulster what the declaration of Independence is to the United States of America, in that its a founding document, a justification for the country to exist.
The founding of the Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF) and subsequent arming of that force (ironically with guns provided by Germany) in the months that followed seen Ulster folk preparing to make good on their pledge. Whether or not the UVF would have went to war over their own government is a matter of debate and merely academic. For events in Europe overtook the events in Ireland with the outbreak of the First World War in 1914.
The charge of the Ulster Division 1st July 1916
This seen the call to arms the opportunity for Ulster to show its loyalty to the Britain and likewise for Britain to reward that loyalty. A special division was formed from the ranks of the old UVF. The 36th (Ulster) Division. It was the conduct of the 36th Division on that first day of the Somme the 1st of July (which is also the date of the battle of the Boyne in the old calendar) 1916 in that it was the only British unit to reach any of its objectives despite possibly being given the most difficult of tasks in taking the Schwaben Redoubt. This is despite the horrendous slaughter and appalling casualties. Indeed the Division suffered so many casualties that it was withdrawn the next day. Its experience at the somme was one from which it never fully recovered but despite this struggled on through the rest of the war and again proving its metal on other occasions.
Drums from Hamilton Flute Band whose members served in
36th Ulster Division are still emblazoned with the old regiment badge
over 100 years on
It was (at least in the folk memory of Ulster) that in 1921 saw the creation of Northern Ireland as a separate jurisdiction to the Home Rule parliament being set up in Dublin, and the next year when home rule turned to independence following the Anglo-Irish conflict saw Northern Ireland given the ability to determine its own future when under the terms of the Anglo-Irish peace treaty Northern Ireland was given the ability to opt out of the Irish Free State and continue as part of the United Kingdom. An opt out it chose to exercise.
Like other battles the story of the Somme is told in song and ballad, possibly the best being the song "bloody road to the somme" which is relatively accurate in the general detail of the battle in the the 36th Division became a victim of their success and got "cut off with no one to support them" and Mown down by fire from three sides" As John Buchan, 1st Baron Tweedsmuir wrote in History of War: "North of Theipval the Ulster Division broke through the enemy trenches, passed the crest of the ridge, and reached the point called the Crucifix, in rear of the first German position. For a little while they held the strong Schwaben Redoubt (where), enfiladed on three sides, they went on through successive German lines, and only a remnant came back to tell the tale. Nothing finer was done in the war. The splendid troops drawn from those Volunteers who had banded themselves together for another cause, now shed their blood like water for the liberty of the world."
This song is an excellent as lays out the struggle of the Home Rule debate and evokes characters from the Ulster cycle such as the warrior Cuchulainn the Hound of Ulster and Connal Clean the ancient King of Ulster both figure who defended Ulster from hostile southern Irish forces. It even evokes the flag of Northern Ireland (the red hand and crown).
memorial to the VC's of Ulster's division in the grounds of the
Ulster Tower, Thiepval, France
The valour of Ulster's division is shown in that it received no fewer than nine Victoria Crosses many of which are still celebrated today, including the first to be won in the battle. Pte William McFadzean was posthumously awarded the VC when he threw himself on a grenade that fallen into a trench full of his fellow soldiers, thus symbolising the sacrifice of the thousands of Ulstermen who fell that day.
There were many quotes from Britain's grates regarding Ulster's Division, which perhaps fueled the idea that it was the province's loyalty and sacrifice that ultimately seen it spared the political death sentence of Irish independence.
The King at the time George V said on the day of the armistice "I recall the deeds of the 36th (Ulster) Division, which have more than fulfilled the high opinion formed by me on inspecting that force on the eve of its departure for the front. Throughout the long years of struggle, which now so gloriously ended, the men of Ulster have proved how nobly they fight and die" Winston Churchill often regarded as the greatest Briton of the 20th Century said of their conduct: "The record of the Thirty-Sixth Division will ever be the pride of Ulster. At Thiepval in the battle of the Somme on 1 July 1916; at Wytschaete on 17 June 1917, in the storming of the Messines Ridge; on the Canal du Nord, in the attack on the Hindenburg Line of 20 November the same year; on 21 March 1918, near Fontaine-les-Clercs, defending their positions long after they were isolated and surrounded by the enemy; and later in the month at Andechy in the days of 'backs to the wall', they acquired a reputation for conduct and devotion deathless in military history of the United Kingdom, and repeatedly signalised in the despatches of the Commander-in-Chief."
dedication tablet in the Ulster Tower with the King's quote
More recently the Ulster historian Richard Doherty recorded: "Whether town dweller or country lad, volunteer or regular, officer or other rank, Catholic or Protestant, the Sons of Ulster knew a comradeship and a trust in adversity that should be a lesson to us all." But perhaps the greatest and most memorable quote is from someone who apart from this quote is largely forgotten. Wilfred Spender was a staff officer attached to the 36th Division and would go on to help establish the Northern Ireland Civil Service as well as reform the returning members of the former UVF into the Ulster Special Constabulary. He wrote of the battle: "I am not an Ulsterman but yesterday, the 1st. July, as I followed their amazing attack, I felt that I would rather be an Ulsterman than anything else in the world. My pen cannot describe adequately the hundreds of heroic acts that I witnessed... The Ulster Volunteer Force, from which the division was made, has won a name which equals any in history. Their devotion deserves the gratitude of the British Empire." It is often said there is no greater honour than to elevated to by others and its certainly true in this case which is perhaps why this quote in particular is remembered and celebrated today. However he goes on to write "The Ulster Division has lost more than half the men who attacked and, in doing so, has sacrificed itself for the Empire which has treated them none too well. Their devotion, which no doubt has helped the advance elsewhere, deserved the gratitude of the British Empire. It is due to the memory of these brave fellows that their beloved Province shall be fairly treated."
Again this feeds into the folk memory that it was throughsacrifice that Northern Ireland was allowed to remain in the United Kingdom while the rest of the island broke away.
Ulster Tower, Thiepval France
Likewise the people of Northern Ireland were quick to ensure their sacrifice would never be forgotten funding the erection of a permanent monument on the battlefield itself. In Fact of the many monuments and memorials on the old battlefields of the Great War the Ulster Tower was the first to be erected. It was modeled on Helen's Tower on Clandyboyle estate in County Down where Ulster's Division was encamped before deployment and was thus the last Ulster landmark many had seen. Although not the grandest of these noble monuments it set a precedent which all of Britain followed. Hence the battle not only helped shape the British identity of Ulster but helped Ulster shape in part the identity of Britain.
It is for these why the Somme is possibly the defining moment in Ulster Protestant identity to this day. Furthermore unlike the Glorious Revolution the First World War is still very much a part of British national memonry with the various events and traditions introduced to remember the war such as Remembrance Sunday and the wearing of poppies still a very much a part of British life and identity not just that of Ulster.
As yesterday was a nice day I decided to take a walk around the city centre of Londonderry, Northern Ireland's second city but in my opinion its capital in terms of history.
It might be useful to read this post before from 2012 before reading here as I will reference a few points in it. Starting in the waterside I walked over the double deck blue and white Craigavon Bridge, the top deck features the city coat of arms every few feet.
Towards the end of the bridge is the plaque commemorating its opening
On this plaque is old arms of Northern Ireland and those of the city:
Moving into the old walled city I passed the courthouse featuring the Royal coat of arms from 1801-1816.
Before the gates of the Cathedral's main drive and on the gate itself (the pic here was taken from inside the gate in order to avoid the sun) are the arms of the former Church of Ireland diocese of Derry (currently paired with Raphoe) on either side of the gate are the city's arms
Inside the gate is the notice board with times for both worshipers and visitors again featuring the diacoses arms
aswell as the Cathedral's seal still in use:
a quick walk in some of the adjourning streets of the walled city and we notice the street name signs feature the city arms.
Onto the city walls themselves, and you will notice a fine collection of 17th & 18th century cannon. Most of these were at various stages provided by the City of London livery companies who financed the plantation city. while the later guns of this period were simply inscribed with the company name the earlier ones bore the London coat of arms, which is still recognisable.
Nxt stop along the walls is the Apprentice BoysMemorial Hall. Here there are two versions of the city arms. One on the balcony with the date of the hall's extension
And higher up the arms appear in a roundel with the text "Apprentice Boys of Derry - No Surrender" around it. Note that on this variant of the arms only half of the St George Cross is used.
heading down the walls to between Magazine Gate and Shipquay Gate overlooking the Guildhall are more cannon with the London arms, however two here are significantly older dating from around 1590 and are distinguished by the Tudor rose and crown, although on both this badge is much faded and worn, however the outline of it can still be traced.
The next and last great building we come to is the Guildhall where the council meets and where civic functions are held. From the walls we see that the building is crested with a crowned lion holding the shield of the Kingdom of Ireland. Below this side by side are the city arms and those of the Irish Society
At the base of the adjoining clock tower is the main entrance featuring a very ornate version of the city coat of arms
I confess to not really knowing what the other shields are. The very top one appears to be the arms of the City of London impaled with the Carpenters Guild, the bottom left looks like a variant of the Sherwood arms of which I am not entirely clear on the city connection. The far right is either a cross of St George possibly from the London arms but with the sword worn away or the De Burgh arms who were the Norman Earls of Ulster.
Along the top of the ground floor windows is a ring of carved oak leaves with three shields, bearing the arms of Ireland, Londonderry and Ulster.
arms of the city
arms of the kingdom
arms of the province
I didn't go into any of the buildings mentioned here maybe I'll do that another time as I know they all have heraldry and other symbols on the inside too